Dream of Ends
I often have dreams I die.. The first death dream I remember was Before I ever started surfing.. For some Odd reason I was surfing at night, Paddling in smooth dark water. An alligator came from Under and bit me and my board right in half. I slowly tingled out of consciousness as both half’s of myself slowly sunk to the dark ocean bottom. I could see the surface slowly slipping away as I also slipped out of courteousness.
The next death dream, I fell off a building and when I hit the ground my soul kept going.. I did not feel any pain.. I Kept falling into blackness and I got scared.
I started surfing at age 18. I lived in Oregon and there was no surf, just snow. I had a dream I woke up from my bed and water was at my feet. I went into the living room of this new house and looked out the balcony and saw a huge title wave coming in from the Horizon. I was in shock scared to say the least.
2 weeks later I moved to the Oregon coast in the very house of my dream.. Scared me to learn Dreams can come true with such vivid detail. And I’m dreaming of my death.
At age 21 the surfing dreams started. I’m surfing on a huge day, Mavericks or Jaws, I’m paddling. Just when a huge freak outside swell breaks and the massive wave goes way over my head, 80 feet or more.. As the wave casts a shadow over me the fear sets in like fire in my skin. I try to hold my breath in time for the falls.. Next thing I know I’m getting thrashed about, its completely dark and I can not hold my breath any longer.. I start to feel tingly and everything starts to get dark on me, I slowly fade away to unconsciousness.
Every time I wake up in the morning I am happy it was not Real. The thing that scares me the most, It is the one of the few dreams I had that didn’t come true. I always dream the future, Vivid detail that is unquestionable.
Yet this has kind of come true. When I got back from Oahu I was really sick after a deep water dive My chest cold was bad. About a week after I felt healed a Huge Winter swell came Rollin in.. I decided to go surfing alone on that day.. A far outside half hour set of 4 waves nearly drown me.. When I saw the first one break I knew I would never make it in time to duck under it.. I took 4 breaths and then had to hold. Asap I felt like I had not taken even one breath and I’m being held down good and hard.. Just when I start to see grey and fade away I hit the surface.. And get 4 more breaths before the next wave did this.. This went on 4 waves in a row.. I came very close to dream state under the waves..
I will for sure make sure I’m in shape before anymore Huge wave surfing.. Thats for sure…
Hence the Yoga;)
