Henna tattoos and body art can be a fun, non-permanent way to decorate your skin. Unfortunately, not all henna is created equal–or safe to have applied to the skin. Henna paste is made from henna powder, which is derived from the henna plant. According to Health Canada, henna in its natural form is safe for use on skin. However, several prepackaged and even homemade henna paste formulas can have harmful ingredients added in, making its application unsafe. Knowing what ingredients are safe and unsafe is essential prior to applying henna to your body.
Black Henna and PPD
In its natural form, henna naturally dyes the skin shades of brown and orange. However, some vendors sell what is called “black henna” or henna that has been altered with chemicals to darken the dye. Paraphenylenediamine, or PPD, is one such chemical that has caused several adverse reactions and allergic reactions when applied to skin. The severity of such reactions led the American Academy of Dermatology to endorse a ban on black henna temporary tattoos containing PPD.
Natural Catalysts: Oils and Acids
Other than hot water, other natural ingredients are sometimes added when creating the henna paste to improve the penetration of the dye. Most of these natural substances can be found in lotions and other skin products. Sometimes tea leaves or cloves will be added to hot water, which is then mixed with the henna powder to create henna paste. Citric acids, such as lemon and orange juice, are also commonly added to henna. In addition to tea and clove oils, mehlabiya oil and mustard seed oil are sometimes added directly to the skin or they can be mixed into the paste itself. While these catalysts are considered natural and safe, pregnant women should consult their doctor regarding the effects of these oils prior to application.
Natural Adhesives: Honey and Sugar
To assist in the sealing of henna coloring into the skin, some henna pastes are made by mixing henna powder with honey or sugar. As henna paste dries on the skin, the stickiness of sugar can help the mixture remain on the skin until the dye and the design have set. It typically takes a minimum of two hours for henna paste to dry and for the design to set. Having an adhesive can help prevent premature peeling.
Other Chemicals
When having henna applied to your body, be sure to ask what ingredients are in the henna the beautician is using. If she is using a premixed paste, ask if you can see the packaging. If the ingredients label includes other chemicals and unnatural products, it is likely that these chemicals may react adversely to your skin. Be wary of any henna products that do not have any ingredients labeled on them. These products may be manufactured in countries without regulatory standards in place for henna products to adhere to, thus making their safety questionable.