Overview
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugarcane that can be used in a variety of facial products to treat acne. Because those with acne experience pores clogged with excess oil, dead skin cells and bacteria, glycolic acid applications can help reduce these pore-clogging materials. This means greater exfoliation of the skin and less occurrence of acne.
Function
When glycolic acid is applied to the skin, the acid works to loosen the “glue” that binds dead skin cells to new cells, according to Glycolic.org. Because these old, dead skin cells can clog the pores, the increased cell turnover means you experience less acne occurrence. Dependent upon the strength of the glycolic acid applied, glycolic acid can even penetrate down to the deeper layers of your skin, which can stimulate collagen production. This means wrinkles and even acne scars may be less noticeable.
Size
In comparison with other members of the alpha hydroxy acid family, such as lactic and citric acid, glycolic acid is a small molecule, according to LoveToKnow Skincare. Because it is so small in size, glycolic acid is better able to penetrate the skin, according to DERMADoctor. For acne treatments, glycolic acid can be derived from sugarcane, unripened grapes, pineapples and some melons.
Types
Glycolic acid can be found in moisturizers and creams suitable for daily use, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Higher percentages of glycolic acid—typically anywhere from 10 to 50 percent—can be applied as a chemical peel, according to LoveToKnow Skincare. Chemical peels more deeply penetrate the skin’s surface and should only be applied in a dermatologist or aesethetician’s office.
Warning
Because glycolic acid is a chemical, applications do have the potential to have unwanted side effects, according to DERMADoctor. These include chemical burns that occur as a result of applying too high a concentration of glycolic acid. Additionally, glycolic acid treatments may leave the skin more sensitive to the sun and dry until your skin has the opportunity to adjust to the glycolic acid application.
Considerations
Glycolic acid is often combined with salicylic acid as a means to improve skin cell turnover. When glycolic acid loosens the dead skin cells, salicylic acid acts to unplug the pores, according to Pioneer Thinking. This combination treatment is available in over-the-counter acne treatment products and can also reduce the appearance of acne scars, according to LoveToKnow Skincare.
