Overview
Rock-climbing shoes began showing up in outdoor specialty stores in the late 1970s. As climbers continued to push the limits of the sport, it was discovered that thin-soled, soft rubber shoes help them break trail on their way up cliff faces. Rock-climbing shoes now are available in many styles but can be classified in two main categories. Serious climbers typically own several styles of shoes designed to help them excel in various climbing environments.
Shoe Construction
Climbing shoes come in two basic styles. The traditional style, called a lace-up, uses shoe laces like a normal shoe. These are popular choices for climbers with foot issues, or for climbers that want maximum comfort and adjustable. Slippers are popular with climbers that like tight fits and low-volume construction. Rock shoes are made with an upper material of leather or synthetic material, a mid-sole and a rand (the strip of rubber that circles the shoe above the sole), using a process called slip lasting. A last is a type of base model that a shoe is constructed around. In slip lasting, the shoe is made around a removable sock, and then the mid-sole is applied, adding stiffness and the final rubber sole, and the rand is stretched around the shoe between the upper and the mid-sole.
Shoe Style and Performance
Depending on the last, rock shoes generally have two shapes, based on what climbers want. There are semi-flexed lasts, which are traditional lasts that are good for all-day comfort and all-around general use. According to REI.com, these shoes have a rocker shape, similar to a running shoe, that provides natural comfort and fit. The other kind of last is called a downturned or cambered-shaped last, which keeps a climber’s foot arched and pointed for difficult climbing.These aggressive shoe styles help climbers use heel hooks and other advanced techniques while climbing inverted and overhanging terrain. They are not very suitable for walking or anything but climbing, as they are are performance-oriented climbing shoes.
Sticky Rubber
The soft rubber that is used on the sole of climbing shoes is meant to create a great deal of friction when under pressure, providing terrific grip to the surface it is in contact with. Climbers delicately place their feet on unlikely edges and improbable holds where it seems nothing could find purchase. The tenacious rubber compounds used adhere to the smallest of imperfections on the rock, allowing climbers to pinpoint tremendous amounts of strength and force on the tips of their toes. In crack climbing, only a small portion of the toe may be inserted, or wedged in the crack, or as much as the entire shoe may be used. These soft rubber compounds are sensitive and thin, and wear out with regular use.
Fit
Fitting rock-climbing shoes can be tough. Experienced climbers know that tight shoes loosen with wear, so getting a good, snug fit is imperative. However, if a shoe is too tight, it can cause pain and lead to injury. Climbing shoes should be tight but not cause pain or hinder circulation. The upper materials of the shoes also determine the overall fit and how the shoes will break in. According to climbing.com. leather is the choice for many climbers–many say it provides the best custom fit, but other climbers say it is too heavy.
If the Shoe Fits, Use It
For general use and beginners, shoes with traditional or semi-flexed lasts are ideal for climbing in a variety of conditions. Climbers need their feet to be reliable and free of discomfort. Traditional lasts are the most comfortable shoes for standing, walking and learning to climb. Downturned lasts are pointed, and they are awkward for anything but climbing. They are designed to keep the feet in an aggressive pointed shape for intense and advanced climbing. It is not uncommon for an avid climber to wear traditional lasts for longer, easier climbs, then switch to a cambered shoe for shorter, more difficult climbs.
